Project Scheduling and Drying Times

Project Scheduling and Drying Times

Whether doing your project yourself or having it professionally done

it is important that you consider the scheduling of the project before beginning.

scheduling concrete stain projects

Here's an example project to get an idea of approximate application and drying times for scheduling. Including advice for new construction projects. Based on 2 people working together on a 1000 square foot project with an average daytime temp of 75 degrees F. Starting with new or in good shape concrete needing just basic cleaning.

💡 TIP: Drying times will vary, depending on temperature and humidity.
Warmer and/or less humidity reduces drying times as where colder and/or higher humidity increases drying times.

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Clean & Prep ¼ - 1/2 day

Timing depends on the condition of the concrete. Clean well and allow to dry.

Drying time 1 - 3 hours

About 1 - 3 hours.

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Applying Stain about 1 hour

Concrete staining is done the same day as clean & prep, after the surface has dried. Apply the stain and allow to dry overnight, up to 24 hours.

Drying time (final coat) 4h - overnight - 24h

4 hours minimum, overnight, or up to 24 hours.

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Clean & Prep ¼ - 1 day

Timing depends on the condition of the concrete. Clean well and allow to dry.

Drying time 1 - 3 hours

About 1 - 3 hours.

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First coat about 1 hour

Apply the first coat and allow to completely dry, usually an hour or two.

Drying time (between coats) 1 - 4 hours

About 1 - 4 hours.

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Second coat about 1 hour

Apply the second coat and allow to dry overnight, up to 24 hours.

Drying time (final coat) 4h - overnight - 24h

4 hours minimum, overnight, or up to 24 hours.

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Neutralizing & Cleaning Residue ¼ - ½ day

Neutralize and rinse the acid stain residue twice. Allow to completely dry for Clear Shield water-based sealers. For solvent-based sealers, allow the surface to become bone dry.

Drying time 1 - 4h (or overnight to 24h)

Usually 1 - 4 hours.

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First coat sealer about 1 hour

Sealing with Clear Shield takes two very thin, even coats. Apply the first thin coat and allow to dry until completely clear and no longer sticky - usually an hour or two.

Dry between coats 1 - 3 hours

About 1 - 3 hours.

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Second coat sealer about 1 hour

Once the first coat is completely clear and you can walk on it, apply the second thin, even coat.

Final dry / cure 10h - 24h+ (cure 48-72h best)

10 hours minimum to 24 hours or more in cold or humid weather. Allowing 48 - 72 hours to cure is best, especially in cooler weather.

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First coat wax about ½ hour

Waxing with Top Shield mop-on floor wax takes two very thin, even coats. Apply the first thin coat and allow to dry completely clear.

Dry between coats 1 hour

1 hour.

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Second coat wax about ½ hour

Once you can walk on it, apply the second thin coat.

Final dry 1h (overnight better)

1 hour, though overnight is better.

⚠️ Solvent Base Sealer Warning ⚠️

If you are going to use a Solvent base sealer, and are doing a project where someone sleeps and may be affected by the sealer or other fumes during ventilation, staying overnight elsewhere is advisable. Otherwise a water base sealer should be used to avoid the build up and toxic effects associated with solvents.

When doing New Construction, when should I stain the concrete?

Many people do it prior to drywall because they don't want to have to put up tape and plastic to protect the walls, doors, cabinets, etc.. But then they have to cover the floors and protect them throughout construction and plan on at least re-waxing afterward.

Others do it after construction so they don't have to worry with re-waxing or cleaning up messes, but they still need to cover and protect the floor during construction to prevent damage and spills on the concrete.

Can I use Tape when covering the floor?

Never ever apply any type of tape to the floor. If you apply tape prior to staining it'll leave glue residue and also pull up the top of the concrete just enough to leave a line and be noticeable.

If you apply it after staining, it'll peel the sealer with it as it bonds to the sealer stronger than sealer can bond to the floor, creating a blemish that needs fixed. So never ever-ever apply tape of any kind directly to the floor, ever, no matter what.

If you cover with cardboard or sheathing, you can tape cardboard, etc., to itself but not the floor. You can also use large tarps to cover with.

When we did ours, what did we do?

When we built our new facility, where we filmed our newer how to videos, we waited until construction was complete and everyone had left before we stained it. Partly because we were shooting videos, but mainly because we didn't want to have to fix it afterward. So we insisted the floors were covered well and kept covered during construction.

We wanted our floors to be as good as they could be.

We kept a diligent eye on all trades, checking on them more than once a day and harped on them as needed to keep them inline and prevent any blemishes. This is what I would suggest to you to do as well.

But if you choose to do the floors first, be sure you seal and wax them, cover them and stay diligent, knowing once all is done and the floors are uncovered, you'll need to re-wax.

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